Per Se – Spectacular Sunset, So So Service

Restaurant Name & Location:
Per Se
10 Columbus Circle
New York, NY 10019
212.823.9335

Chef Name: Thomas Keller

Type of Meal: Dinner

What we Ordered:
See the Menu – (Menu changes regularly)

Amuse Bouche - “Salmon Cornets” (Tuiles Shaped into Tiny Cones and Topped with Crème Fraîche and Fresh Salmon)

“Oysters and Pearls” (“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar)

Bread…

“Terrine of Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras” (Cornbread Crumble, Hakurei Turnips, Compressed Belgian Endive and Acacia Honey with Toasted Brioche)

“Salad of Big Island Hearts of Palm” (Cherry Belle Radishes, English Peas and Petite Mint with French Prune Purée)

“Sautéed Fillet of Mediterranean Lubina” (Sacramento Delta Green Asparagus, Glazed Sunchokes and Garden Dill with Cocktail Grapefruit Condiment)

“Japanese Bigfin Squid Poêlé” (Baby White Asparagus, Wilted Dandelion Greens and Nasturtium Blossoms with Sour Cherry-Niçoise Olive Coulis)

“Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster” (Red Pepper Raviolo, Compressed Fennel Bulb and Sylvetta with “Sauce Noilly Prat”)

“Marcho Farms’ Ris De Veau” (Oregon Morel Mushrooms, Green Garlic and Field Mizuna with Hollandaise Mousseline)

“Four Story Hill Farm’s Milk Fed Poularde” (Black Winter Truffle Mousse, Red Beets, Celery Branch “Ribbons” and Red Veined Sorrel with Beet Essence)

“Elysian Fields Farm’s Carré d’Agneau Rôti Entier” (Royal Blenheim Apricots, Cauliflower Florettes, Wilted Arrowleaf Spinach, Cilantro Shoots and Espelette Pepper Syrup with Greek Yogurt)

“Spenwood” (Buckwheat Crêpe, Frisée Lettuce and Plumped Raisins with Marinated Young Onions)

“Lemon Gingersnaps” (Jamaican Gingerbread and Meyer Lemon "Marshmallow" with "Pain d’Épices" Ice Cream)

“Guava Sorbet” (Black Sesame Nougatine and Kiwano Melon with Whipped Green Tea)

“Swiss Roll” (Chocolate "Roulade," Manjari Chocolate "Crémeux" and Chocolate Covered Banana with "Glace à la Crème Fraîche")

First and foremost, we must start by saying that Chef Thomas Keller is an extremely talented chef.  We’ve had the pleasure of heightened experiences at his restaurants, French Laundry and Per Se, prior to this night.  On those occasions, the meals and service, both food and wine were incredible and still to this day provide fond memories for us.

Many of the dishes that you see here were, from a taste perspective, up to Chef Keller’s standards.  What was disappointing about this meal was the lack of outstanding service and knowledge compared to what we’ve received in the past.  When a restaurant charges an exceptional price for a meal, all aspects of food and service are expected to be commensurate – exceptional.  On this evening, the server could not fully describe the dishes and could not answer questions about the ingredients, much less pronounce correctly some of the ingredients.  This happened on more than one dish presentation.  We finally gave up asking, even though we longed to know more about the obvious painstaking efforts that the kitchen chefs took to prepare the courses.  We were even more surprised to see this type of service as we spotted Chef Keller himself present in the restaurant and knew he would be horrified if he knew what was happening.  We have dined at Chef Keller’s restaurants over a 9 year period.  On each occasion, the Amuse Bouche has been the same every time.  Has this been a coincidence or is it by design?  We know that the “Salmon Cornets” are a signature dish for Chef Keller, but perhaps, if it is in fact by design, he could develop variations of it or ask if the diners if they would like an alternative amuse.

Now onto the positive-

Favorite Dishes: There were two dishes that were symphonic.  The Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster was filled with layers of flavors that kept us wanting more.  The Red Pepper Raviolo was perfectly prepared, and the contrast of its softness and ability to melt in our mouths while we tasted a crisp piece of Compressed Fennel Bulb was moving.

The Elysian Fields Farm’s Carré d’Agneau Rôti Entier was perfectly prepared, and the presentation on the unique antique silver rack holder was incredible and fun to eat from.  The varied flavors of the apricots, cauliflower florettes, wilted spinach, cilantro shoots, and pepper syrup with Greek yogurt provided us with many combinations to explore individually and then finally eat all together.

Least Favorite Dish: Japanese Bigfin Squid Poêlé with Baby White Asparagus, Wilted Dandelion Greens, and Nasturtium Blossoms with Sour Cherry-Niçoise Olive Coulis – The squid was chewy and disappointing and had the same texture problem as our least favorite dish at Le Bernardin.  As the meals were within 24 hours of each other, we began to wonder if they use the same purveyor and received a less than ideal delivery?

Other Highlights: Our hostesses were very attentive as we arrived and departed, making us feel welcome and hoping we would return.  They exemplified the Thomas Keller service we are normally accustomed to.  Starting our dinner around 6:00 was perfect as it gave us a long time to soak up the spectacular sunset view from the dining room.  The varied setting of the sun on buildings with various heights and configurations created a lovely panorama.

Ultimate Question – would you go back if you lived in NYC and often?: If money were no object, we would have to try it again, because of our other exceptional experiences in the past.  If the same service issues occurred, then we would feel compelled to reach out to Chef Keller’s management team, if not him directly, to let them know of this issue, as we are certain that Chef Thomas Keller would not want anything less than the very best at his establishments.

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