Phone: 03-80-22-30-22

Cuisine: French

Price: Main courses 15€-28€ ($22-$41); fixed-price menu 20€ ($29)

Hours: Monday – Tuesday & Thursday – Friday noon-1:30pm & 7:30-9

Reservation: Recommended

Credit Cards Accepted: MC, V

As we make our plans to visit Burgundy, one of our first things that we want to know is whether Ma Cuisine will be open for us to dine.  The restaurant has varied days of operation, usually opening on average 4 days per week.  It is a MUST on our list, and we always look forward to the food and wine that Fabienne and Pierre will offer us, not to mention their smiling faces and warm welcome.

Ma Cuisine Sign

If dining at lunch, the lunch board usually has a 3 course prix fixe menu, made with seasonal ingredients.

Ma Cuisine Lunch Menu

If dining at night, the dinner board has a more extensive menu to offer, both menus written entirely in French.

Ma Cuisine Dinner Menu

All tables have fresh olives, cornichons, mustard, and bread as a starter.

Black Olives

Cornichons

Bread

On our most recent dinner, we enjoyed the fresh melon with prosciutto – a group favorite! In fact, Chef David Bull has shared his version of this staple appetizer with Port Salut Cheese and a Vanilla Muscato Gastrique, which is often prepared for guests of the Keeper Kitchen.

Ma Cuisine Fresh Melon with Prosciutto

We eyed a dish we hadn’t yet tried, the escargots, and they were fabulous.  The texture of the snails was impeccable and you’ll notice that the sauce they were cooked in resulted in us savoring every last drop as a dipping sauce for our baguette.

12 Escargots Traditionnels

12 Escargots Traditionnels (After)

Whenever we see the tuna tartare offered on the menu, we cannot resist and again, we were glad to have ordered it.

Tartare de Thon Frais

The Jambon Persille (Jellied Ham with Parsley) is a local dish that we love to try as it is made differently by many chefs.  Fabienne’s creation of this local special is excellent.

Jambon Persille Maison

For our entrees, we tried roasted chicken, pigeon, and duck breast.  All were prepared with perfection and each plate was near spotless before we allowed the server to take them away.

Poulet Roti

Pigeon Roti (Before and After)

Margret de Canard Roti

We were so glad that Ma Cuisine was open during our recent trip.  Combining the well-prepared dishes with selections from Pierre’s beautifully selected wine list provided the setting for another memorable Ma Cusine meal.  Thank you Fabienne and Pierre.

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Localisation: Passage Ste-Hélène, Beaune

Téléphone: 03-80-22-30-22

Cuisine: Française

Prix: Plats principaux 15€-28€ ($22-$41); menu 20 € (29 $)

Heures d’ouvertute: Lundi – Mardi & Jeudi – Vendredi midi-13h30 & 7h30

Réservation: Recommandé

Cartes de credit acceptées: MC, V

Comme nous faisons nos plans pour visiter la Bourgogne, l’une de nos premières choses que nous voulons savoir, c’est si Ma Cuisine sera ouvert pour nous pour diner.  Le restaurant a changer ses jours d’ouverture, d’habitude ouvert 4 jours par semaine. C’ est un incontournable sur notre liste, et nous avons toujours hâte de voir ce que Fabienne et Pierre vont nous offrir, sans parler de leurs visages souriants et l’accueil chaleureux.

Si vous dinnez le midi, le menu comprend 3 plats préparés avec des ingredients de saison.

Menu du Midi

Si vous dinnez le soir, le menu vous offre plus de choix, les deux menus sont entièrement écrits en français.

Menu du Soir

Sur chaques tables, il y a des olives fraiches, des cornichons, de la moutarde, et du pain.

Olives Noires

Cornichons

Pain

Lors d’un diner plus récent, nous avons apprécié le melon frais avec du prosciutto-un favori du groupe! En fait le Chef David Bull a partagé sa version avec des amuse-gueule au  fromage le Port Salut et vanilla  Muscato Gastrique, qui est souvent prepare pour les membres de l’équipe Keeper.

Melon et Magret

Nous avons vu un plat que nous n’avons jamais essayer,  les escargots, et ils sont fabuleux. Leurs textures était impeccable et vous remarquerez que nous avons savourer la sauce jusqu’a la dernière goutte avec notre baguette.

12 Escargots Traditionnels

12 Escargots Traditionnal (Apres)

Chaque fois que nous voyons le tartare de thon proposé, nous ne pouvons résister et a nouveau, nous avons été heureux de l’avoir commandé.

Tartare de Thon Frais

Le jambon persillé est un plat local que nous aimons essayer car il est préparé différement par de nombreux chefs. La creation de Fabienne de ce plat local est excellente.

Jambon Persille Maison

Pour nos plats de résistance, nous avons essayé le poulet roti, le pigeon et le magret de canard. Tout était préparé a la perfection et chaque plat était impeccable avant que nous n’autorisions le serveur de les emporter.

Poulet Roti

Pigeon Roti Avant-Apres

Magret de Canard Roti

Nous étions si heureux que Ma Cuisine soit ouvert pendant notre récent voyage. L’union des plats bien préparés avec des sélections de la carte des vins joliment choisie par Pierre a fourni le cadre pour un autre repas memorable a Ma Cusine. Merci Fabienne et Pierre.

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1. Paris, Pierre Gagnaire 1996
2. Paris, Gaya rive gauche 2005
3. London, Sketch 2002
4. Tokyo, Pierre Gagnaire a Tokyo 2005
5. Hong Kong, Pierre a Hong Kong 2008
6. Dubai, Reflets by Pierre Gagnaire 2008
7. Seoul, Pierre Gagnaire a Seoul 2008
8. Las Vegas, Twist by Pierre Gagnaire 2009
9. Moscow, Les Menus par Pierre Gagnaire 2010

He has been noted as a pioneer of molecular gastronomy and on the forefront of the fusion movement.   S. Pellegrino rates his flagship as number 13 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. The Keeper Team has enjoyed their fair share of the top 50, including
#6 Alinea
#8 Daniel
#10 Per Se – Keeper Review
#15 Le Bernardin – Keeper Review
#26 Momofuku Ssam Bar – Keeper Review
#32 The French Laundry
#44 La Maison Triosgros
#45 wd~50
#50 Eleven Madison Park – Keeper Review, to name a few.   So, to see that Gagnaire’s flagship restaurant drop six spots this year is perplexing to our team.

Enough background information – let the Pierre Gagnaire spectacle begin!  We are presented the menu and it looks so simple and elegant, imagining that the meal will be the same, very classic French.

Pierre Gagnaire Menu

As we open to see what is in store for our Chef’s Tasting Menu, we are swept into another world, realizing that we are about to embark on an untouchable food adventure.

Pierre Gagnaire Menu

Could this be possible?  And before even our first course, we enjoy a visit from Chef Pierre, who has come out of the kitchen to make sure his guests are enjoying the show! (Sorry for the blur…We get a little shaky at Celebrity sightings!)

Chef Pierre Gagnaire

The table setting even have surprises. We expected glorious French butter, but what would this whimsical lid uncover?

Butter

We ask our server and learn that our second butter option is Saffron Butter.

Saffron Butter

Three breads to go with the butters come next.  The Seaweed bread is so unique and glorious.

Assorted Breads, Cereal, Milk & Seaweed

Our attentive waitstaff present us with the Amuse Bouche.  Imagine starting with not one, but 8 different amuse bouche to enjoy.  Here they are!

Watermelon with Strawberry Reduction

Cracker with Purple Potatoes Puree & Hazelnut Topped Surprise

Sticks in Thyme Infused Olive Oil and Tuna Puree/Blackberry Savory Macaroons

Two Savory Canapes

We could feel our taste buds applauding and beginning to move forward in their seats in anticipation of what was ahead.  As the servers present the first course, they spend the time to explain the many elements that are combined to create this dish.  Chef makes the cod fish seem like royalty.  He selects the “heart” of the cod and prepares it ever so lightly to show off the beauty of his selection.  He then uses his mastery with other elements of rhubarb, pomegranate, grapefruit, nettlefish, cucumber….  The dish shows us the Chef’s intellectual approach to cooking, compared with his ability to write prose with his food by blending multiple unexpected ingredients in one dish.  We are often suspect of a chef using too many ingredients in one dish.  But, in this case, Gagnaire shows his incredible amount of culinary flexibility.

Cuddlefish, Cockle & Shellfish Bed Marinated in a Rhubarb Water with Pomegranates; Grapefruit Liebig, Green Beans & Crunchy Cucumber from the Garden, Filet (Heart) of Cod with Nettlefish Compote

We thought the previous dish was tasty and then the server presents a dish called Velvety Turner.  We didn’t care why or how it got its name, as our taste buds just about jump out of their seats to try this dish.  Wow, hats off to the Chef.  Chanterelle mushroom and cool almond sauce gently glide like a ballerina all the way down our palette, followed by a prima donna performance in the mint and sugar snap pea ice cream.

Velvety Turner Zucchini Flower Blossom Stuffed with Apricot, Chanterelles in a Mushroom and Cool Almond Sauce; Agastache (Mint and Sugar Snap Pea) Ice Cream

The next course includes three separate dishes that can each easily stand on their own, but were so interesting as a trio.

Garden Pea Soup, Fava Bean and Parma (Fevettes & Culatello); Parmesan Quenelle, Cramone Mustard

Garden Pea Soup, Fava Bean and Parma (Fevettes & Culatello); Parmesan Quenelle, Cramone Mustard

Crimson Taggiasche Olive & Caper la Nicchia Ravioli; Tomato Marmalade

Foie Gras over Melon Tuile, Eggplant & Soft Cabbage

All Three Together as One Course

Next is lobster, baby langoustine in an airy, perfectly textured pouch, with a lobster mousse martini on the side – now we are really dancing!

Blue Lobster Aiguillettes with Basil Cuttlefish Veil, Baby Langoustine with Pepper & Sauteed Little Squid

Lobster Mousse Topped with Seabeans Topped with Lobster Terrine

Lobster Mousse Topped with Seabeans Topped with Lobster Terrine

How much more can our taste buds handle?  Of course, the chef tempts us with a white summer truffle dish.

Mascarpone Souffle Pancake; Kabu Turnip, Young Leeks and Spinach Fondue; White Summer Truffles Slices & a Salt Crunch

Mascarpone Souffle Pancake; Kabu Turnip, Young Leeks and Spinach Fondue; White Summer Truffles Slices & a Salt Crunch

Finally, before the cheese and dessert courses, we are served a perfectly prepared oriental spiced lamb dish complemented with a silver box of red onion petals to garnish as we please.

Red Onion Petal with Gingerbread

Mousseron Mushrooms, Rice and Stomach Organ with Coriander

Leg of Lamb Oriental; Mousseron Mushrooms, Rice and Stomach Organ with Coriander

Now, it’s time for the cheese.  Chef Pierre, in his creative, unconventional style, did not roll a cheese cart to our table.  Instead, he offers three, interestingly prepared cheeses.

Ewe Cheese Corse with Breadcrumbs of Chestnut, Strawberry Tree’s Honey & Dry Tomatoes with Sage

Ring Vic-bilh Cheese, Hibiscus Jelly with Gooseberry

Bleu des Causses Cheese, Eglantine (rose flower) Marmalade; Date Leaf Water with Beer

The server then announces that our 12 desserts are on their way.  We are certain that the server has misspoken, or our culinary inebriation has fogged our hearing…did he say 12??  Sure enough, 12 desserts soon arrive – Thank goodness some of them are bite-sized.

Whipped Cream on Peach Puree with Rhubarb Strips & Tasty Nibbles

Coffee Ice Cream with Cherries

Strawberries Meringue & Strawberry Mousse with Fresh Strawberries

Baby Strawberries with Tuille & Crème Fraiche

Chocolate with Hazelnuts & Chocolate Sauce

This show gets a standing ovation from us, and we all agree that an encore would be welcomed.  Chef Pierre Gagnaire prepared a most intricate, mind boggling, detailed, complexly creative, elevated,  extraordinary meal for our group.  Just like a Cirque de Soleil performance, Chef kept us excited to see what would come next – when we thought we had seen it all, we were surprised with something even more grand.  Just saying we were impressed doesn’t do Chef Pierre Gagnaire justice. We were in awe of this Chef’s culinary approach.

Related posts:

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**CHEFS UNDER FIRE CHALLENGE: Until Friday July 23, correctly translate one sentence of this post from French to English in the comments section and we will email you a code for a FREE ENTRY to Chefs Under Fire 2010!  Each comment must translate a different sentence.  Give it a shot!  (Here’s a tip – Google Translate is pretty helpful!)

Don’t know what CUF is? Learn more at www.ChefsUnderFire2010.com.

Les créations extremes avec gout et texture, les combinaisons de nourriture avec des présentations étonnantes, planning incroyable et execution du service de nourriture-Quel spectacle nous attend? Un spectacle de nourriture par le chef Pierre Gagnaire a son premier restaurant a Paris. Le chef Pierre possède neuf restaurants dans les villes les plus célèbres du monde:

1. Paris, Pierre Gagnaire 1996
2. Paris, Gaya rive gauche 2005
3. London, Sketch 2002
4. Tokyo, Pierre Gagnaire a Tokyo 2005
5. Hong Kong, Pierre a Hong Kong 2006
6. Dubai, Reflets by Pierre Gagnaire 2008
7. Seoul, Pierre Gagnaire a Seoul 2008
8. Las Vegas, Twist by Pierre Gagnaire 2009
9. Moscow, Les Menus par Pierre Gagnaire 2010

Il a été un pionner de la cuisine moléculaire et au premier rang du mouvement de fusion.  S. Pellegrino a évalué son vaisseau comme numéro 13 des 50 meilleurs restaurants du monde. L’équipe de Keeper a mangé dans beaucoups de restaurants du top 50 inclus

#6 Alinea
#8 Daniel
#10 Per Se – Keeper Review
#15 Le Bernardin – Keeper Review
#26 Momofuku Ssam Bar – Keeper Review
#32 The French Laundry
#44 La Masion Triosgros
#45 wd~50
#50 Eleven Madison Park – Keeper Review, pour en nommer certain. Donc, pour voir le restaurant de Pierre Gagnaire baisser cette annee de six place est incroyable pour notre equipe.

Bien, assez pour les informations de base – laissez le spectacle de Pierre Gagnaire commencer! Nous présentons le menu et il parait si simple et elegant, imaginant que le repas va être le même, tipiquement francais.

Menu de Pierre Gagnaire

Quand nous ouvrons pour voir ce que le magasin du chef nous propose , nous sommes transportés dans un autre monde, réalisant que nous sommes  en train d’embarquez  dans une nouvelle aventure culinaire.

Menu de Pierre Gagnaire

Est cepossible? Et avant même que  nous commencions, nous voyons le chef Pierre sortir de sa cuisine pour etre sure que ses invites apprécient le spectacle. (Désolé pour  le  flou nous devenons un peu chancelant en apercevant des célébrités!)

La table présente des surprises. Nous nous attendons au glorieux beurre francais, mais qu’est ce que cette étrange boite  aux points rouges recouvre?

Beurres

Nous avons demandé au serveur et appris que notre second beurre est un beurre au safran.

Beurre au Safran

Trois pains pour allez avec le beurre arrivent ensuite. Le pain aux algues  est unique et glorieux.

Pains assortis, Cereales, Pain au lait & Algues

Le personnel attentif nous  présente les amuse bouche. Imaginez commencer avec pas un, mais huit differents amuse bouche.   Les voila.

Pasteque avec Reduction de Fraises

Cracker avec Puree de Pommes de Terre Violette & Noisette Surprise Emince

Baton de Thym Infuse Dans de l'huile d'olive et une Purée de Thon/Macarons de Mures Savoureuses

Deux Canapes Savoureux

Nous pourions sentir nos papilles gustatives applaudire et commencer de bouger de leurs sieges en anticipant la suite. Comme les serveurs présentent l’entrée, ils passent du temps a expliquer les nombreux éléments combines pour créer ce plat. Le chef   fait du cabillaud royal. Il selectionne le “Coeur” du cabillaud et le prepare si légérement pour monter la beauté de sa selection. Ensuite il utilise sa maitrise avec les autres éléments qui sont la rhubarbe,la grenade, le pamplemousse, nettlefish, les concombres. Ce plat montre l’inteligence du chef pour la cuisine, comparé avec sa capacité de faire de la prose avec ses ingredients innatendus et multiples dans un plat. Nous somme souvent suspect d’un chef qui utilise trop d’ingrédients dans un plat. Mais dans ce cas le chef montre son incroyable  fléxibilité culinaire.

Couteaux, Coques et Bouchots Maceres dans Une Eau de Rhubarbe Aux Grenades Liebig de Pamplemousse, Haricots Verts et Comcombres Croquants du Jardin Coeur de Cabillaud á la Nacre Enrobé d’ortie

Nous avons pensé que le plat précédent était savoureux et puis le serveur présente un plat appelé velouté Turner. Nous ne nous sommes pas souciés pourquoi ou comment il a obtenu ce nom, comme nos papille gustative sautent de leurs sièges pour gouter ce plat. Wow, bravo au chef. Les girolles et amandes fraiches sont comme une ballerine tout en bas notre palais suivi par une performance de l’agastache.

Velouté Turner : Fleur de Courgette á l’abricot, Girolles Boutons et Amandes Fraiches; Crème Glacée á l’agastache

Le plat suivant inclu trois plats séparés indépendants mais aussi interessant q’un trio.

Soupe de Petits Pois, Fevettes et Culatello, Quenelle de Parmesan, Moutarde de Cramone

Soupe de Petits Pois, Fevettes et Culatello; Quenelle de Parmesan, Moutarde de Cramone

Raviole Pourpre d'olive Taggiasche et Capra la Nicchi; Crunchy de Main de Bouddha

Foie de Canard Roti/Laque; Fraicheur de Melon, Aubergine et Chou Tendre

Le Trio Servi Ensemble Comme un Meme Plat

Le plat suivant est du homard, des petites langoustines, la poche parfaitement texturée avec un martini de homard sur le coté-maintenant nous dansons vraiment!

Aiguillettes de Homard Bleu avec du Basilic, Gambas de Palamos au Piment et Poele de Petits Encornets

Cremeux d'araignee de Mer Knodel Marin et Salicornes

Cremeux d'araignee de Mer Knodel Marin et Salicornes

Combien de plats pouvons nous encore manger? Bien sur, le chef nous tente avec un plat de truffles blanches d’été.

Galettes Souflees a la Mascarpone; Navet Kabu, Jeunes Poireaux et Fondu d'epinard; Salade de Truffes Blanches d'ete a la Croque au Sel

Galettes Souflees a la Mascarpone; Navet Kabu, Jeunes Poireaux et Fondu d'epinard; Salade de Truffes Blanches d'ete a la Croque au Sel

Finalement, avant le fromage et les desserts,nous est  servis un plat d’agneau oriental épicé parfaitement préparé.

Petale d'oignon Rouge au Pain d'epice

Gigot d'agneau de Lait a l'orientale; Moousseron, Riz et Panse a la Coriandre

Gigot d'agneau de Lait a l'orientale; Moousseron, Riz et Panse a la Coriandre

Maintenant, c’est l’heure du fromage. Le chef Pierre, dans sa créativité, son style inconventionnel, n’a pas roulé un plateau de fromage jusqu’a notre table. Au lieu de cela, il nous offre trois fromages préparés de facon intérressante.

Tome de Brebis Corse Cendree d'une Chapelure de Chataigne, Miel d'arbousier et Tome Seche a la Sauge

Anneau de Vic-bihl, Gelee d'hibiscus aux Groseilles

Bleu des Causses, Confiture d'eglantine; Feuille de Datte Arrose de Biere

Le serveur annonce alors que nos 12 desserts sont sur le point d’être servis.

Crème Fouettee Sur Puree de Peche avec Bande de Rhubarbe et 6 Pieces de Desserts Individuels

Glace au Cafe et Cerises

Meringue aux Fraises et Mousse de Fraises avec des Fraises Fraiches

Petites Fraises avec Tuille et Creme Fraiche

Chocolat avec Noisettes et Sauce au Chocolat

Ce spectacle mérite une ovation de notre part et nous reconnaisons qu’un bis serait le bienvenu. Chef Pierre Gagnaire a préparé un repas extraordinaire, complexe, renversant, créatif  élevé pour notre groupe. Juste comme un performance du Cirque du Soleil. Le chef nous laisse excité de voir ce qui viendra ensuite-quand nous pensions avoir tout vu, Nous avons été surprise par quelque chose d’encore plus grand. L’énonciation que nous avons été impressionné ne fait pas honneur au chef Pierre Gagnaire. Nous étions dans la crainte de l’approche culinaire de ce chef.

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Kai Jiru - Atlantic mussels, heirloom tomato water, basil blossom, celery

After reining our photographer back down to Earth, we were WOWed with a dish called Koviche, composed of fresh day boat scallop over tomatillos, kalamata olive powder, black lime salt, and a corn flake tuille.  The scallops were perfect, and they had a sweetness that paired well with the tomatillos, which were tart but not bitter.  Our server suggested that we use the tuille as a chip under the layers of scallop and tomatillo, and yes that was a hit!

Koviche, fresh day boat scallops, tomatillos, kalamata olive powder, black lime salt, corn flake tuille

Avocado Sushi Pieces with Yuzu kosho and tamari

Hiramasa Yaki - seared yellow tail amberjack, fennel, fuji apple

Shime Saba -cured Norwegian mackerel, tomato, truffle, basil

Surprise from Chef COLE – Grapefruit sorbet with a fine dice of avocado and asian pear, candied fennel chip – YUMMY

Grapefruit Sorbet with a fine dice of avocado and asian pear, candied fennel chip

Usagi Yaki - crispy rabbit terrine, quail egg, pear mostarda, sweet pea

Usagi Yaki - crispy rabbit terrine, quail egg, pear mostarda, sweet pea

Nasu Japanese Eggplant, sumiso (on left); Gyutan Grilled Beef Tongue, fish caramel, maldon salt (on right)

Chicken Karaage - Fried half cornish game hen, sansho pepper, lemon

Oyster Mushroom Nabe – oyster mushroom, rice, egg, bonito flakes, parsley

Bacon Sen - Berkshire pork belly, fried green apple puree, fugi apple kimchee

Uni Sushi

Sweet Corn Sorbet, Polenta Custard, Caramel Salt, Lemon

Chevre Fondant Tomato Sorbet, sicilian pistachio croquant

Chef Paul Qui & Crew

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Chef Name: Chef Jean Georges Vongerichten

Type of Meal: Dinner

What We Ordered:

abc kitchen menu

Fresh Radishes Roasted Turnips, Honey-Thyme Marinade

Roasted Portabellas with Celery Leaves

Roasted Turnips, Honey-Thyme Marinade

Peekytoe Crab Toast

Pear and Apple Salad, Endive & Creamy Blue Cheese Dressing

Mackerel Sashimi Marinated with Ginger

Sautéed Pork Terrine with Arugula & Sherry Vinaigrette

Roast Carrot & Avocado Salad, Crunchy Seeds, Sour Cream & Citrus

Whole Wheat Bigoli, Berkshire Pork Ragu

Sautéed Arctic Char, Sweet-Garlic Crumbs & Romanesco Cauliflower

Grilled Pork Loin, Apple-Meyer Lemon Puree & Swiss Chard

Kasha & Bowtie Pasta, Veal Meatballs

Doughnuts with Blood Orange Marmalade

Chocolate Cake with Malted Chocolate Ganache and Toasted Marshmallow

We are breaking away from our typical NYC restaurant review format for this one because our experience at ABC Kitchen was not a pleasant one.  The service was appalling, and the food was uninspired. This may seem like a harsh review, so let us explain what constitutes a poor and disappointing dining experience for us….

On this evening, the Keeper Team of diners consisted of four people.  We all ordered our dining selections at the same time.  Our first course was served to our table, and only three of the four dishes were delivered. The server told us they would “be right back” with the missing dish, but offered no reason or apology.  This immediately changed the ambiance of our meal. While three of us sat there with our dishes in front of us, the one with nothing insisted that we eat.  We all uncomfortably obliged assuming the server would return any second.  Nearly ten minutes later (that’s not an exaggeration and is a VERY long time in such a situation) the server finally delivered the missing dish, again with no apology or explanation.

For our next course, one of us was served a dish that was not ordered.  While we did mention it to the server, we decided to just keep it after experiencing such poor treatment on the first course – not being able to predict how long it would take to present the correct dish and if it would be of decent quality.  At the end of our meal, we were not offered compensation, reason, or apology for the unacceptable service we received.  Having dined at a Jean-Georges restaurant before, we expected more.  We do understand that this is a hip, young, contemporary, and less expensive restaurant theme; however, there was definitely a disconnect between the back end and front end of the house that night, and our experience significantly suffered as a result.  There would have to be a compelling reason for us to return to ABC Kitchen (which we cannot imagine), even with the recent surprisingly generous review from the NY Times. There are so many more impressive alternatives in NYC for us to spend our dollars.

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344 West 11^th Street

New York, NY 10014

ph:212.352.2300

Chef Name: Kurt Gutenbrunner

Type of Meal: Brunch

What we Ordered: Download the Menu

Breakfast Breads Market Greens, Radishes, Pumpkin Seed Oil

Spätzle, Braised Rabbit, Wild Mushrooms, Tarragon

Hungarian Beef Goulash, Fresh Herb Spatzle

GET THE BEEF GOULASH RECIPE HERE

Wiener Schnitzel, Potato-Cucumber Salad, Lingonberries

Steak Rösti, Spiegelei, Fava Beans

Salzburger Nockerl

Thanks also to a talented New York sommelier and our good friend Jordan Salcito, we enjoyed a surprisingly delectable brunch at Wallse.

Favorite Dish: We started with the breakfast breads which were such a treat and really fantastic, especially with a good cup of java.  Our overall favorite dish was the Hungarian Beef Goulash with Fresh Herb Spätzle.  It was the texture and taste of the spätzel with the spices used in the goulash that made us want a second serving!  Since demonstrating the Beef Goulash on Good Day New York, this dish has become a pretty popular dish from Chef Gutenbrunner, but it was a special treat to get to enjoy it with the Fresh Herb Spätzle as well.

Other Highlights: One of the highlights was getting started with the Market Greens, Radishes, and Pumpkin Seed Oil beacuse it was so simple and fresh.  It was a nice way to ease us into the heavy dishes we had ahead.  Also, it’s always nice to be able to recreate some restaurant dishes at home for yourself or others. Chef Gutenbrunner is nice enough to share several of his menu item recipes on the Wallse website.  Below you can find the recipe for the Salzburger Nockerl – we haven’t tried this one in the Keeper Kitchen yet, but it sure sounds simple enough to try it out soon and trust us, if it is anything like the restaurant version, it’s worth it!

Salzburger Nockerl

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 Lemon
• 1 pint Raspberries
• Soft butter and sugar
• Large platter
• 10 Egg whites
• 4oz Sugar
• 4 Yolks
• 2oz All purpose flour

Pre-heat oven to 380F

DIRECTIONS:

1. Brush your platter with butter and then sprinkle sugar on top, so it covers the plate except for the edges.

2. Then mix raspberries with lemon juice and put them in the center of your buttered platter.

3. Start to whip egg whites, when they get a little foamy, slowly add the sugar and finish whipping until stiff peaks.

4. Take meringue out of mixing machine and carefully fold in yolks followed by the flour. Use a rubber spatula. Also be careful not to mix too much so you don’t lose too much volume.

5. Then, scoop three quenelles of batter next to each other – on top of raspberries.

6. Put it in the oven for about 12 min – or until golden brown at 390F.

7. Serve as soon as it comes out, with powder sugar on top. It will be soft still in the center.

Ultimate Question – would you go back if you lived in NYC and often?: We would absolutely go back, the service, presentation, and flavors in the dishes were all fantastic. We would love to see if they could repeat this awesome experience of good food and great service.  We’d also be interested to try Wallse for a different meal since they are open for lunch and dinner as well.

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11 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10010

ph: 212.889.0905

Chef Name: Daniel Humm

Type of Meal: Lunch

What we Ordered: See the Menu (Menu changes seasonally)

Assorted Breads

Cheese Gougéres

Amuse Bouche

Butternut Squash Velouté with Hawaiian Blue Prawns and Maitake Mushrooms

Composition of Spring Vegetables with Market Lettuce and Almond

Big Eye Tuna Tartare with Radish, Yuzu, and Sesame

Radicchio Tardivo with Buffalo Mozzarella, Basil, and Champagne Mango

Balik Salmon with Pommes Dauphine, Frisee and Creme Fraiche

St. Canut Farm Cochon de Lait with Rhubarb, Spring Onion and Ice Wine Vinegar

Colorado Lamb with Artichoke Barigoule, Taggiasca Olives and Piquillo Peppers

Fregola Sarda with Veal Sweetbreads, Hedgehog Mushrooms and Fine Herbs

Spaetzle with Niman Ranch Pork Belly, Pommery Mustard and Spinach

Assorted Macaroons (Before)

Assorted Macaroons (After)

About three weeks after the Keeper Team dined at 11 Madison Park Chef Daniel Humm was deservingly awarded James Beard Best Chef: New York City; however, we knew long before of Daniel Humm’s talent.

What we Drank: We chose a lovely German Wine by Donhoff for our White and a beautiful Chambolle  from Domaine Amiot-Servelle for our red.

Favorite Dish: This is really hard, because each time we tasted a dish we felt like it was the best.  So, if we must pick only one, it would have to be the Cochon de Lait.  Cochon de Lait essentially translates to “Pig in Milk” and is a common Cajun dish requiring that a pig roast for sometimes up to 12 hours.  Having experienced first-hand South Louisiana Cochon de Lait  all day feasts, we were ready and armed with our critical tastebuds, but again Chef Humm won the battle against our palettes.  Chef Humm finessed this traditional dish with his own touch, preparing the pig in three different ways, and we found nothing but praise for all three.

Least Favorite Dish: Nada! It truly was all outstanding.

Other Highlights: The ambience of the room combined with the outstanding service we received from the moment we entered the front door until the moment we left makes 11 Madison Park a total team staff effort from the back of the house to the front of the house.  Another highlight and something we’ve never seen before was that we noticed a staff member off to the side ironing a white tablecloth with an antique non-electric clothes iron. This was thoroughly impressive and our group marveled at this and the attention to detail that 11 Madison Park displays.

Ultimate Question – would you go back if you lived in NYC and often?: Absolutely.

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Arriving early on a Friday allowed us to have the seat of our choice, which involved three seating options: inside bar with view of chefs at work, inside table, or outside seating.  We jumped at the chance to get up close and watch the chef and his team in action.  In this small intimate setting, the design allowed adequate dining space with a cozy, but comfortable feeling.  The music and interior gave us a sense of young and hip in a neighborhood setting.  Chef Ned graciously permitted us to photograph what was ahead.

Chefs Ned & Jodie

The menu was very interesting and had so many dishes that we wanted to try.

The libation list was modest, but had some interesting choices.  The Cyclist is a mixture of ginger beer, session lager and preserved lemon syrup.  We had this and a glass of the Rioja white and found both to be nice.

White Rioja and Cyclist

With that, we were off to the races and ready to try what these chefs had to offer.  Having read Chefs Ned and Jodie’s bios that include stints for Ned under Chef Alain Ducasse, one year on the opening team at Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York (where the Keeper team also recently visited), and one year at Picholine, and Chef Jodie’s pastry work at  Gramercy Tavern, The Savoy Hotel in London, Bouley, Per Se, Peacock Alley in the Waldorf Astoria, and Michael Symon’s Parea, needless to say, our expectations were high.  (Another Chef Factoid- Chef Jodie rapidly ascended as the Pastry Chef of Parea and earned a two-star review from the New York Times.)

At the bar, Chef Ned presented and explained each dish to us.  We started off with a salad of fresh lettuces and vegetables with fresh peaches and a raspberry dressing.  This was very light, fresh and a good start for our palettes to prepare for the next dish.

“Almost Summer” Fresh Greens, Artichokes, Fresh Grilled Peaches, Rhubarb, Raspberry Champagne Vinaigrette

The second dish was our dish of the night and a real “wow” experience.  Chef took Grilled Baby Octopus topped with foamed almond milk and “shattered” garlic and placed over a bed of Chickpea purée.  This dish started to unveil the creative and clever ingredient combinations of Chef.  The Baby Octopus were cooked to perfection and the texture was perfect and not at all chewy.  The chickpea purée had to be the best we had ever had with a unique spice flavor that was interesting, but not overdone.  The foamed milk was a draw on the eye and another texture and flavor that added, but was not too much.  Finally the “shattered” garlic was very unique and tasty.  Chef explained that the garlic is a long process with the final step before shattering described as drying the flattened garlic on silpat in the oven for 20 hours!    We would order this dish again and again.

“Grilled Baby Octopus” Chickpeas, Almond Milk, Shattered Garlic

Our third dish was Venison Spare Ribs over a bed of Braised Hearts of Celery and Piquillo Peppers, complemented with a celery vinaigrette, and a blue cheese panna cotta.  We loved the ingenious use of flavors and textures by the Chef.  Chef explained that these were Axis Ribs from Broken Arrow that had been braised for many hours and then finished on the grill to give it a sear.  The Venison Spare Ribs were perfectly tender, and the flavor was not too gamey.  The ribs provided a great backdrop for the light spices that the Chef combined in this dish.  The nice surprise was the blue cheese panna cotta.  It was not overpowering and gave a nice contrast in texture and flavor to the ribs and veggies in the bowl.  Our only suggestion on this dish is for the server to warn the diner of some small bones and cartilage in the ribs.  These can be easily removed and would enhance the dining experience.

“Axis Venison Spare Ribs” Celery Vinaigrette Cabrales Panna Cotta, Celery Leaves, Piquillo Peppers

Next up – Griddled Chicken with Corn Pudding, Pole Beans, Pig Ear Cracklins, and a sherry vinegar.  Chef explained that the chicken (which is a combination of breast and thigh) is cooked sous vide to maintain moisture and then griddled right before serving.  The corn pudding was fantastic (side note: this is coming from a person who rarely enjoys corn pudding as I typically find it too sweet). The sherry vinegar calmed the sweetness of the corn as well. The texture of the beans were a nice addition.  We asked Chef about the Cracklins and he said that they scrape off the cartilage and the skin to make these cracklins.

“Griddled Chicken” Corn Pudding, Pole Beans, Cracklins, Sherry Vinegar

With Chef Jodie’s mastery of pastry, we couldn’t leave without trying a dessert.  The chocolate and bacon immediately caught our eye as both of these ingredients are favorites of some of our Keeper team!  The dessert continued the theme of creative, clever, and crafty.  Rich chocolate covered a smoky piece of bacon with contrasting, but complementary textures.

Chocolate and Bacon

This dining was a “must go back” experience.  The type of experience that we plan to recommend to many friends in the near future.  Hats off to Chefs Ned and Jodie, especially considering it was only their second night to be open.  We hated to leave anything, even the sauces, on our plates, so next time we will ask for a spoon to be sure to slurp it all up!

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That night, we made an enthusiastic trip to Greenwich Village for casual and authentic pizza at Keste.  Upon walking into Keste, you would think that this Pizzeria opened last week instead of last year.  It was packed with patrons, and they really know how to pack ‘em in tightly.  In fact, the tables are so close together, that in order for me to sit on one side of the table, the waiter had to slide the table out, I squeezed past (fearing that my purse would knock over the glass of wine at the table next to me), and the table was then pushed back in towards me.  I inadvertently overheard far too much information about the recent breakup in the life of the stranger at the table to my right, but that’s just how it goes when you’re that cozy.  I only point this out because it was a notable part of the experience, not as a  a criticism (although my neighbor unconsiously divulging her personal life to a complete stranger might disagree) – it added to the experience of a loud, fast paced, everyone’s-a-friend type of Italian environment.  Our pizzas were served within 5 minutes of ordering and were excellent.  Soft and puffy crust – heavy in tomatoes – rich buffalo mozzarella melted through.  Though the outer crust was thick, the bottom layer was too thin to eat this pizza by hand (not impossible, but definitely messy – so we made it a fork and knife endeavor, which is easier for sharing anyway). 

The large brick oven is an essential component of the Keste experience.  Authentically constructed by a team of Italians, this oven is kept at around 1000 degrees and can cook the pizzas in about 1 minute (which explains the fast pace and quick turn of the tables around here).  It must be true what Keste says: “the unique flavor of brick-oven pizzas is unmatched.” 

The pizzas were large and we were still rather full from the afternoon of snacking, so we gladly boxed up a good majority of the leftovers and looked forward to snacking on them over the next day or so.  On the walk back to the subway, we popped into Grom for some gelato.  My sweet tooth must have gotten the best of me because I completely got sidetracked from the pizza I was bringing home and left the to-go box at the Grom checkout counter!  I guess my memories of the few bites of pizza at Keste will have to tide me over until my next trip to NYC.              

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