Arriving early on a Friday allowed us to have the seat of our choice, which involved three seating options: inside bar with view of chefs at work, inside table, or outside seating.  We jumped at the chance to get up close and watch the chef and his team in action.  In this small intimate setting, the design allowed adequate dining space with a cozy, but comfortable feeling.  The music and interior gave us a sense of young and hip in a neighborhood setting.  Chef Ned graciously permitted us to photograph what was ahead.

Chefs Ned & Jodie

The menu was very interesting and had so many dishes that we wanted to try.

The libation list was modest, but had some interesting choices.  The Cyclist is a mixture of ginger beer, session lager and preserved lemon syrup.  We had this and a glass of the Rioja white and found both to be nice.

White Rioja and Cyclist

With that, we were off to the races and ready to try what these chefs had to offer.  Having read Chefs Ned and Jodie’s bios that include stints for Ned under Chef Alain Ducasse, one year on the opening team at Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York (where the Keeper team also recently visited), and one year at Picholine, and Chef Jodie’s pastry work at  Gramercy Tavern, The Savoy Hotel in London, Bouley, Per Se, Peacock Alley in the Waldorf Astoria, and Michael Symon’s Parea, needless to say, our expectations were high.  (Another Chef Factoid- Chef Jodie rapidly ascended as the Pastry Chef of Parea and earned a two-star review from the New York Times.)

At the bar, Chef Ned presented and explained each dish to us.  We started off with a salad of fresh lettuces and vegetables with fresh peaches and a raspberry dressing.  This was very light, fresh and a good start for our palettes to prepare for the next dish.

“Almost Summer” Fresh Greens, Artichokes, Fresh Grilled Peaches, Rhubarb, Raspberry Champagne Vinaigrette

The second dish was our dish of the night and a real “wow” experience.  Chef took Grilled Baby Octopus topped with foamed almond milk and “shattered” garlic and placed over a bed of Chickpea purée.  This dish started to unveil the creative and clever ingredient combinations of Chef.  The Baby Octopus were cooked to perfection and the texture was perfect and not at all chewy.  The chickpea purée had to be the best we had ever had with a unique spice flavor that was interesting, but not overdone.  The foamed milk was a draw on the eye and another texture and flavor that added, but was not too much.  Finally the “shattered” garlic was very unique and tasty.  Chef explained that the garlic is a long process with the final step before shattering described as drying the flattened garlic on silpat in the oven for 20 hours!    We would order this dish again and again.

“Grilled Baby Octopus” Chickpeas, Almond Milk, Shattered Garlic

Our third dish was Venison Spare Ribs over a bed of Braised Hearts of Celery and Piquillo Peppers, complemented with a celery vinaigrette, and a blue cheese panna cotta.  We loved the ingenious use of flavors and textures by the Chef.  Chef explained that these were Axis Ribs from Broken Arrow that had been braised for many hours and then finished on the grill to give it a sear.  The Venison Spare Ribs were perfectly tender, and the flavor was not too gamey.  The ribs provided a great backdrop for the light spices that the Chef combined in this dish.  The nice surprise was the blue cheese panna cotta.  It was not overpowering and gave a nice contrast in texture and flavor to the ribs and veggies in the bowl.  Our only suggestion on this dish is for the server to warn the diner of some small bones and cartilage in the ribs.  These can be easily removed and would enhance the dining experience.

“Axis Venison Spare Ribs” Celery Vinaigrette Cabrales Panna Cotta, Celery Leaves, Piquillo Peppers

Next up – Griddled Chicken with Corn Pudding, Pole Beans, Pig Ear Cracklins, and a sherry vinegar.  Chef explained that the chicken (which is a combination of breast and thigh) is cooked sous vide to maintain moisture and then griddled right before serving.  The corn pudding was fantastic (side note: this is coming from a person who rarely enjoys corn pudding as I typically find it too sweet). The sherry vinegar calmed the sweetness of the corn as well. The texture of the beans were a nice addition.  We asked Chef about the Cracklins and he said that they scrape off the cartilage and the skin to make these cracklins.

“Griddled Chicken” Corn Pudding, Pole Beans, Cracklins, Sherry Vinegar

With Chef Jodie’s mastery of pastry, we couldn’t leave without trying a dessert.  The chocolate and bacon immediately caught our eye as both of these ingredients are favorites of some of our Keeper team!  The dessert continued the theme of creative, clever, and crafty.  Rich chocolate covered a smoky piece of bacon with contrasting, but complementary textures.

Chocolate and Bacon

This dining was a “must go back” experience.  The type of experience that we plan to recommend to many friends in the near future.  Hats off to Chefs Ned and Jodie, especially considering it was only their second night to be open.  We hated to leave anything, even the sauces, on our plates, so next time we will ask for a spoon to be sure to slurp it all up!

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Moroccan-Style Grilled Cheese Sandwich

It has been crazy wild around here since my appearance on Top Chef Masters.  As you may know, I managed to win the Quickfire challenge with a Moroccan-style Grilled Cheese Sandwich.  The best part is that I won $5,000 for the charity I was playing for, Recipe for Success.  Of course, this is the season that the Quickfire Challenges don’t contribute any points towards your final score.  Kind of like when, back in 1996, I won Best New Chef from Food & Wine Magazine, and the next year was the year they started putting the Best New Chefs on the cover.  For some reason, this kind of thing always happens to me.

The night my episode aired, we had a watch party at t’afia; a good customer told me that, if I won anything, she was going to match it as a donation to Recipe for Success (ooh, I hope she can afford $5,000!).  Since then, I have been overwhelmed by how supportive and generous people have been — my wallet is full of checks for Recipe for Success…$50, $100, $150.  I am excited that people were moved to give and are stepping up to make change in the lives of our children.  Both Gracie and I say thank you from the bottom of our hearts!

The actual Top Chef Masters challenge was to do a grilled cheese sandwich that reflected me as a chef, that really represented “my” food.  Some folks are having trouble connecting the Moroccan Grilled Cheese to what they perceive as “Monica Pope food.”  But Coastal Mediterranean cuisine has always been my thing.

In the Top Chef Masters studio kitchen, they take you around to the pantry and coolers so you can assess the ingredients on hand; there’s a cheese fridge, a lettuce fridge, a miscellaneous pantry, breads, etc.  We were also allowed to bring some signature ingredients with us as long as they fit in a 17” x 24” metal bin; I stuffed my suitcase with all sorts of things, including pomegranate molasses.  From the start, I had my eye on the loaf of date-walnut bread and I immediately came up with this Moroccan-style grilled cheese with feta, farmer’s cheese and a melt-y white cheese.  I made a cumin butter (to toast the bread with), sprinkled some cinnamon, used more fresh dates and voila.  I also grabbed three micro herbs — cilantro, basil and mint — to make a little accompanying salad with an orange blossom water-honey dressing.  I finished the plate with a swizzle of a pomegranate molasses-maple syrup mixture.

So, for class today, I am going to re-create my TCM Quickfire Challenge sandwich.  Luckily, I’ve got a posse of women sous chefs today that I motivate to grate and slather all these grilled cheeses and to pick and clean and dry lettuces because we’ve got a full class!

Right before someone gives me the grater, they say Benjy warned them to be careful, it’s very sharp; but, of course, I grate my finger.  I call for a medic (Dr. Adam is in the house), but someone from the audience is actually faster than he is and I get bandaged up.  Must keep cooking, must keep cooking (sing as Ellen DeGeneres’ Dori from Finding Nemo).  My friend Julia made a hand-sewn word shirt for me that says, “just grate” — I wish I was wearing it now.

At the market today, Emile St. Community Garden has some really nice petite dino kale, arugula and some stunning curly mustard (I’ve actually never seen this variety before — it’s a beautiful leaf, almost like filigree, and has a wonderful mustard-y flavor).  I’m thinking that this will be really nice with the dressing…and the grilled cheese.  My army of sous chefs is asking how to tear or cut the lettuces.  I decide to not tear the lettuces, I like the idea of biggish leaves of lettuces today.

Beautiful and delicious local lettuces

I keep barking at the sous chefs to keep on prepping, keep on prepping.  I’m trying to make them cry, but no one is having it — the pressure isn’t getting to them for some reason.  Who knew I would cry on national television, in front of millions?  Not me.

I joke that I’m fishing my band-aid out of the pure luck feta but no one buys that, either.  Then there’s a crash on the front row.  Valerie, one of my sous chefs, has tumped the orange blossom water over and onto the floor, breaking the bottle and Moroccanizing the entire Green Plum Cooking School.  I take a deep breath.  On Top Chef Masters, someone has to play the jerk, someone has to cry, someone has to get hurt, someone’s food has to be compromised — you get the idea – and it’s all déjà-vu now, but history seems to be repeating itself.  I refuse to cry again.  Valerie is gritting her teeth, her daughter is trying to pretend they’re not related, and I’m going to Plan B.  I tell the audience to “imagine” the taste of the smell of the orange blossom water and I set about to make a dressing with blood oranges (blood seems to be a running theme today), honey, orange zest, cumin and cinnamon.  Joe “Kanye” Apa appears with (oddly enough) one Moroccan-style lamb chop for me to taste/approve.  I eat it (delicious).

Time to jump on the grilling of the cheese sandwiches, or else we won’t make it.  It’s 10:12am.  On the show, each chef is told to call out the time, so I have the audience do that.  It really does build drama as we’re building the grilled cheese sandwiches.  I have three pans going and a sandwich press all at once.  I’m trying to get the right balance of toast-y and melt-y that makes a grilled cheese sandwich great.  We manage to serve it all up by 10:29.  I only got burned once and cut twice and I’m pretty sure that Valerie went home and cried.  Sometimes, drama happens.

NOTE: The recipes used in my Green Plum Cooking School classes can be found in my online cookbook, “Eat Where Your Food Lives,” available for purchase at http://www.ChefMonicaPope.com.

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Chef Name: Thomas Keller

Type of Meal: Dinner

What we Ordered:
See the Menu – (Menu changes regularly)

Amuse Bouche - “Salmon Cornets” (Tuiles Shaped into Tiny Cones and Topped with Crème Fraîche and Fresh Salmon)

“Oysters and Pearls” (“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar)

Bread…

“Terrine of Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras” (Cornbread Crumble, Hakurei Turnips, Compressed Belgian Endive and Acacia Honey with Toasted Brioche)

“Salad of Big Island Hearts of Palm” (Cherry Belle Radishes, English Peas and Petite Mint with French Prune Purée)

“Sautéed Fillet of Mediterranean Lubina” (Sacramento Delta Green Asparagus, Glazed Sunchokes and Garden Dill with Cocktail Grapefruit Condiment)

“Japanese Bigfin Squid Poêlé” (Baby White Asparagus, Wilted Dandelion Greens and Nasturtium Blossoms with Sour Cherry-Niçoise Olive Coulis)

“Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster” (Red Pepper Raviolo, Compressed Fennel Bulb and Sylvetta with “Sauce Noilly Prat”)

“Marcho Farms’ Ris De Veau” (Oregon Morel Mushrooms, Green Garlic and Field Mizuna with Hollandaise Mousseline)

“Four Story Hill Farm’s Milk Fed Poularde” (Black Winter Truffle Mousse, Red Beets, Celery Branch “Ribbons” and Red Veined Sorrel with Beet Essence)

“Elysian Fields Farm’s Carré d’Agneau Rôti Entier” (Royal Blenheim Apricots, Cauliflower Florettes, Wilted Arrowleaf Spinach, Cilantro Shoots and Espelette Pepper Syrup with Greek Yogurt)

“Spenwood” (Buckwheat Crêpe, Frisée Lettuce and Plumped Raisins with Marinated Young Onions)

“Lemon Gingersnaps” (Jamaican Gingerbread and Meyer Lemon "Marshmallow" with "Pain d’Épices" Ice Cream)

“Guava Sorbet” (Black Sesame Nougatine and Kiwano Melon with Whipped Green Tea)

“Swiss Roll” (Chocolate "Roulade," Manjari Chocolate "Crémeux" and Chocolate Covered Banana with "Glace à la Crème Fraîche")

First and foremost, we must start by saying that Chef Thomas Keller is an extremely talented chef.  We’ve had the pleasure of heightened experiences at his restaurants, French Laundry and Per Se, prior to this night.  On those occasions, the meals and service, both food and wine were incredible and still to this day provide fond memories for us.

Many of the dishes that you see here were, from a taste perspective, up to Chef Keller’s standards.  What was disappointing about this meal was the lack of outstanding service and knowledge compared to what we’ve received in the past.  When a restaurant charges an exceptional price for a meal, all aspects of food and service are expected to be commensurate – exceptional.  On this evening, the server could not fully describe the dishes and could not answer questions about the ingredients, much less pronounce correctly some of the ingredients.  This happened on more than one dish presentation.  We finally gave up asking, even though we longed to know more about the obvious painstaking efforts that the kitchen chefs took to prepare the courses.  We were even more surprised to see this type of service as we spotted Chef Keller himself present in the restaurant and knew he would be horrified if he knew what was happening.  We have dined at Chef Keller’s restaurants over a 9 year period.  On each occasion, the Amuse Bouche has been the same every time.  Has this been a coincidence or is it by design?  We know that the “Salmon Cornets” are a signature dish for Chef Keller, but perhaps, if it is in fact by design, he could develop variations of it or ask if the diners if they would like an alternative amuse.

Now onto the positive-

Favorite Dishes: There were two dishes that were symphonic.  The Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster was filled with layers of flavors that kept us wanting more.  The Red Pepper Raviolo was perfectly prepared, and the contrast of its softness and ability to melt in our mouths while we tasted a crisp piece of Compressed Fennel Bulb was moving.

The Elysian Fields Farm’s Carré d’Agneau Rôti Entier was perfectly prepared, and the presentation on the unique antique silver rack holder was incredible and fun to eat from.  The varied flavors of the apricots, cauliflower florettes, wilted spinach, cilantro shoots, and pepper syrup with Greek yogurt provided us with many combinations to explore individually and then finally eat all together.

Least Favorite Dish: Japanese Bigfin Squid Poêlé with Baby White Asparagus, Wilted Dandelion Greens, and Nasturtium Blossoms with Sour Cherry-Niçoise Olive Coulis – The squid was chewy and disappointing and had the same texture problem as our least favorite dish at Le Bernardin.  As the meals were within 24 hours of each other, we began to wonder if they use the same purveyor and received a less than ideal delivery?

Other Highlights: Our hostesses were very attentive as we arrived and departed, making us feel welcome and hoping we would return.  They exemplified the Thomas Keller service we are normally accustomed to.  Starting our dinner around 6:00 was perfect as it gave us a long time to soak up the spectacular sunset view from the dining room.  The varied setting of the sun on buildings with various heights and configurations created a lovely panorama.

Ultimate Question – would you go back if you lived in NYC and often?: If money were no object, we would have to try it again, because of our other exceptional experiences in the past.  If the same service issues occurred, then we would feel compelled to reach out to Chef Keller’s management team, if not him directly, to let them know of this issue, as we are certain that Chef Thomas Keller would not want anything less than the very best at his establishments.

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That night, we made an enthusiastic trip to Greenwich Village for casual and authentic pizza at Keste.  Upon walking into Keste, you would think that this Pizzeria opened last week instead of last year.  It was packed with patrons, and they really know how to pack ‘em in tightly.  In fact, the tables are so close together, that in order for me to sit on one side of the table, the waiter had to slide the table out, I squeezed past (fearing that my purse would knock over the glass of wine at the table next to me), and the table was then pushed back in towards me.  I inadvertently overheard far too much information about the recent breakup in the life of the stranger at the table to my right, but that’s just how it goes when you’re that cozy.  I only point this out because it was a notable part of the experience, not as a  a criticism (although my neighbor unconsiously divulging her personal life to a complete stranger might disagree) – it added to the experience of a loud, fast paced, everyone’s-a-friend type of Italian environment.  Our pizzas were served within 5 minutes of ordering and were excellent.  Soft and puffy crust – heavy in tomatoes – rich buffalo mozzarella melted through.  Though the outer crust was thick, the bottom layer was too thin to eat this pizza by hand (not impossible, but definitely messy – so we made it a fork and knife endeavor, which is easier for sharing anyway). 

The large brick oven is an essential component of the Keste experience.  Authentically constructed by a team of Italians, this oven is kept at around 1000 degrees and can cook the pizzas in about 1 minute (which explains the fast pace and quick turn of the tables around here).  It must be true what Keste says: “the unique flavor of brick-oven pizzas is unmatched.” 

The pizzas were large and we were still rather full from the afternoon of snacking, so we gladly boxed up a good majority of the leftovers and looked forward to snacking on them over the next day or so.  On the walk back to the subway, we popped into Grom for some gelato.  My sweet tooth must have gotten the best of me because I completely got sidetracked from the pizza I was bringing home and left the to-go box at the Grom checkout counter!  I guess my memories of the few bites of pizza at Keste will have to tide me over until my next trip to NYC.              

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Chef Name: Chef Michael White – Here is also a wonderful Chef White video from Always Hungry NY to get you salivating before you even see the pictures below.  

Type of Meal:
The Keeper Team split up for this one.  The first group dined at Marea for lunch, and the other group attended later that evening to enjoy dinner.  Both teams experienced Marea in a unique way with a different menu, but both experiences were superb – Proving even further why this elegant Italian hideaway along Central Park South deserves its recently awarded title of Best New Restaurant by James Beard Foundation.    

What we Ordered at Lunch:
See the Lunch Menu  

Sgombro- Pacific Jack Mackerel, Duck Prosciutto, Pomegranate

Polipo – Grilled Octopus, Smoked Potatoes, Pickled Red Onion, Chilies, Tonnato

Fusilli - Durum Wheat Pasta, Red Wine Braised Octopus, Bone Marrow

Tagliata- Creekstone Farms Prime Sirloin, Bone Marrow Panzanella, Braised Romaine

What we Drank at Lunch: 

2006, Luca Ferraris, Monferrato Rosso Il Re

Favorite Lunch Dish:
The Polipo dish was outstanding.  The octopus was cooked beautifully and seasoned perfectly.  The potatoes contained just the right amount of smoke – overall, an excellently balanced plate.  The Fusilli, a Marea trademark dish, was delicious, don’t get us wrong, but we were a little disappointed in the weak presence of the bone marrow.  We were left wanting “more marrow!” with each bite. Anyone who likes bone marrow can surely relate.  

Least Favorite Lunch Dish:
The Sgombro was good, but in comparison to the rest of the spread, it was easily surpassed. We had some differing opinions at the table about the presence of the duck prosciutto.  Some thought it got lost in the dish, others that that the saltiness and firmness of the prosciutto was a defining element of the dish as a whole.  

Other Lunch Highlights:
We chose to partake in Marea’s Business Lunch.  This consists of a Primo and a Secondo for a fixed price and then you can order additional items as you wish.  One thing to note about this is that the portions of the Business Lunch are rather small, so chances are, you’ll end up selecting a few additional menu items and possibly spending just as much as you would have in the first place.  On the other hand, because of the small portions, this is nice way to get to taste more dishes without overstuffing yourself.  

What we Ordered at Dinner:
See the Dinner Menu
We were seated right away and got a the familiar wine-induced warm fuzzies as we passed the wine cooler, which was filled to the brim, as was the restaurant, packed with patrons.  

We divided and conquered what was ahead with one side exploring the options for food and the other side devouring the unique wine list.  Hmmm, our minds immediately drifted towards our trips to Puglia with our friends at Southern Visions. The world of food and wine collided when we placed our orders. After seeing such a beautiful fish presented to the table, we had to have Branzino.  

Whole Branzino

We ordered some small dishes before the Branzino.  

Sardine - House Marinated Sardines Topped with Arugula

Polipo- Grilled Octopus, Smoked Potatoes, Pickled Red Onion, Chilies, Tonnato

Calamari – Squid and Calabrese Sausage Ripieno, Kale, Sunchoke, Crustacean Sugetto

Astice – Nova Scotia Lobster, Burrata, Eggplant al Funghetto, Basil

Salsiccia – Housemade Seafood Sausage, Red Cabbage, Veal Tongue, Potato, Hazelnuts

Agnolotti – Veal Ravioli, Sweetbreads, Funghi

Branzino –Wild Bass, (Italy) Salt Baked

Roasted Beets, Ricotta Salata

Eggplant Agrodolce

Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Pancetta

What we Drank at Dinner:
The wine list offered some interesting wines from producers that we hadn’t yet tried.  We are never ones to turn down new wines, so we went for it. The wine captain was extremely enthusiastic and promised us that the wines would drink beautifully right now. He was right!  

Favorite Dinner Dish:
The fresh Branzino with the 4 dipping sauces was wonderful, again sparking many memories of our Italian travels with Southern Visions.  The fish was prepared beautifully and the sauces were an ultimate complement to the fish, neglecting to take anything away from the prominent flavor of the fish itself. The sardines were also lovely and so fresh.  

Other Dinner Highlights: 
The service was good – attentive but not overly so.  Considering the packed house, the staff didn’t seem to miss a beat.  The ambiance is elegant but relaxed.  White tablecloths, well lit, peaceful – a very Italian coastal feel.  

Ultimate Question – would you go back if you lived in NYC?: 
The Keeper Team would be delighted to return to Marea for either Lunch or Dinner.  There are still so many menu items left to try and so much room left in our stomachs!

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The wine list had many possibilities for our palettes (check out the wine list at the beautiful newly launched TRIO website!) here .  Sadly we had to limit ourselves to two:  1999 Gosset Millennium Champagne and 1993 Ampeau Pommard.  Let the fun begin!  

• Amuse Bouche – Torched Salmon Belly on a Rye Cracker with an Heirloom Tomato glazed in Saba Dressing  (Saba was described to us as unoxidized must – juice from fresh grapes – that has been slowly cooked into a vinegar syrup) , along with Heirloom Tomato Water- out of the gate with a winner for Todd.
• Chef Todd’s version of Surf and Turf –Beef Carpaccio on Puff Pastry filled with Shrimp over Sherry Schezuan Broth (the Carpaccio was from a Beef Ribeye from Niman Ranch) – texture and taste flavors worked well in this dish.
• Hot Fluffy Popover with optional Salted Butter on the table – this was a delight as the bread was warm and the butter was the perfect temperature and texture.  So often the butter in restaurants is served too cold, which can negatively affect the texture and taste.  This small detail can have huge significance, and in this case, TRIO has it down pat!
• Crispy Baby Snapper, Pan Roasted with Baby Green Fava Beans, Shiso Miso, England Sweet Peas in a Green Herb Broth (the first thing that came to our mind when we saw this dish was Chef Eric Ripert and Le Bernardin – the fish was the focus of the plate and beautifully tasty.  (Interesting factoid – Chef Todd Duplechan and Chef Eric Ripert both have worked with Chef David Bouley in New York – coincidence or do you think Chef Bouley had an influence on this style?)
• Brined and Pan Fried Pork Belly Lardon, Rubbed with Spices (like the flavors of Coca Cola- interesting spice thoughts), Served with a Red Wine Plum Sauce, and Topped with Pickled Veggies
• Roasted Texas Quail, with Shredded Apple and Asparagus, Green Mole, and Applewood Smoked Bacon
• Wild South Texas Bison, Seared & then Poached in Ginger & Chile infused Olive Oil, Topped with Blue Cheese from Brazos Valley in Waco, on a Bed of Ramp Pesto and Sprinkled with Morel Mushrooms, along with a Poached Red Wine & Brown Butter Sauce – this bison was soooo tender and the creamy blue cheese was a perfect topping – ramp pesto added color and taste and who wouldn’t love fabulous morels?

As usual, we didn’t think we had room for any more food, but the desserts arrived and we magically uncovered that dessert compartment in our stomachs:

• Chocolate Hazelnut Mousse with Chicory Ice Cream, Candied Hazelnuts (from Alba, Italy)
• Coconut Lemon Curd with Candied Lemon and Toasted Coconut Curd Ice Cream

The champagne and wine paired beautifully with this meal, and the attention from a service perspective was spot on!  Thanks to Mark Sayre, Chef Todd Duplechan, and the wonderful staff at TRIO Four Seasons – we know why the restaurant was crowded with happy diners on a Wednesday night, no less!

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